Mandarin: Golden Sparkle on the Skin

Sun-drenched, juicy, and luminous, mandarin brings a smile to perfumery. A radiant citrus fruit, it has captivated perfumers with its sparkling and fruity profile, at once fresh and tender. Extracted from the zest through cold expression, mandarin essential oil is a key ingredient in modern olfactory compositions. Both refined and playful, it lends itself to endless combinations—each drop of mandarin embodies the spirit of Mediterranean joy.

In this article, let’s explore the origins of mandarin in perfumery, its emotional power, the expertise of Robertet in sustainable sourcing in Calabria and Sicily, iconic mandarin-based fragrances, and of course, how it shines in L'Atelier Parfum creations.


A Radiant Citrus with Mediterranean Roots

Originally from Asia, mandarin (Citrus reticulata blanco) belongs to the vast citrus family. It was introduced to Europe in the 19th century and quickly found fertile ground in Italy—especially in Sicily and Calabria, where its cultivation flourished. Today, it is a beloved fruit both in cooking and perfumery, appreciated for its sweet, tangy, and sunlit aroma.

The essential oil is extracted from the zest of the fruit using cold expression. There are several varieties, and their oils vary depending on the harvest period:

  • Green mandarin: harvested early in the season, it has a more herbaceous and slightly bitter edge.
  • Yellow mandarin: more mature, with a rounder, softer scent.
  • Red mandarin: harvested later, offering a richer, fruitier note.

Each essence reveals a subtly different personality, yet all share that fresh and comforting “smile” that defines mandarin.


A Joyful Ingredient That Lifts the Mood

Mandarin essential oil is often associated with positive emotions. Its sparkling, sweet notes instantly evoke freshness and vitality. In aromatherapy, it is said to promote relaxation, combat stress, and soothe restlessness.

In perfumery, mandarin injects an effervescent, juicy dimension into compositions. Whether opening a fragrance with a burst of brightness or softening more intense accords, it brings a breath of optimism to the olfactory pyramid. Its presence recalls the serenity of Mediterranean landscapes, festive evenings, and winter mornings punctuated by citrus zest.

Mandarin has the gift of reconciling opposites: it is both vibrant and gentle, familiar and refined, nostalgic and contemporary. A true mood-lifter, it evokes joy and lightness.


How Robertet Supports Sustainable Mandarin Sourcing in Italy

At L’Atelier Parfum, we are proud to work with historical partner Robertet, who has been sourcing Italian mandarin since the 1990s with a strong ethical and environmental commitment.

🌍 Where does our mandarin come from?
Mandarin is cultivated in Sicily and Calabria, with 90% of the production dedicated to essential oils concentrated in Calabria. The total cultivated area in both regions spans 2,800 to 3,000 hectares, involving a large number of local farmers.

🤝 Social Actions
Robertet buys directly from citrus cooperatives in Sicily, under contracts that ensure a stable and fair income.

The partner transforms the fruit into essential oil in situ, guaranteeing traceability and quality.

Robertet signs annual purchase contracts ahead of the harvest, offering financial security and a reliable outlet for farmers.

🌱 Environmental Actions
Robertet’s partner is committed to:

Sourcing natural ingredients with respect for biodiversity and people,

Reducing CO2 emissions, optimizing water use and recycling process water,

Recovering by-products, and

Using 100% renewable energy.

✅ Supply Chain Certifications
UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade) certification confirms commitment to ethical sourcing and biodiversity.

The supplier promotes Good Agricultural Practices among producers and is in the process of joining the Sustainable Agriculture Initiative (SAI).

Part of the production is already certified GlobalGAP (Good Agricultural Practices).

These long-standing and transparent practices ensure a sustainable and responsible mandarin industry, aligned with the values of L’Atelier Parfum.


Iconic Perfumes Featuring Mandarin

Mandarin has been embraced by many perfumers for its versatility and freshness. Here are some cult or beloved creations that prominently feature mandarin:

  • Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic – Guerlain: A luminous and herbal mandarin enhanced by basil.
  • Neroli Portofino – Tom Ford: Mediterranean elegance with citrus, neroli, and orange blossom.
  • Un Jardin sur le Nil – Hermès: A green and aquatic perfume that opens with green mango and mandarin.
  • CK One – Calvin Klein: A unisex classic where mandarin mingles with green tea and papaya.
  • Light Blue – Dolce & Gabbana: A sunny scent inspired by the Italian coast, starring Sicilian mandarin.

More niche houses and indie perfumers are also turning to mandarin to add a joyful, contemporary twist to their creations.


L’Atelier Parfum Creations with Mandarin

At L’Atelier Parfum, mandarin is celebrated for its power to bring light and movement to a composition. You’ll find it at the heart of several of our fragrances, where it acts as a luminous thread connecting top notes to deeper accords.

  • Coeur de Pétales : «“The creation of this perfume is the memory of a multicolored bouquet crossed at the corner of a street in Paris. Bright colors that contrasted with the graying cobblestones. The blend of freesia, rose, lily of the valley and peony flowers is sprinkled with a green, natural scent reminiscent of the wild grasses of a wild garden.» Dorothée Piot, creator of Coeur de Pétales

  • Berry Shiver  « The radiance of rose and jasmine petals is tinted with a hint of red fruits that enlivens the note. The musks become comfortable and luminous. It's comforting to envelop oneself in the softness of its delicate flowers and the comfort of its silky musks. » Karine Vinchon, creator of Berry Shiver


These creations reveal mandarin’s versatility, always offering that extra dose of cheer and refinement.


Conclusion: The Sun in a Zest

Whether green, yellow, or red, mandarin is more than just a citrus fruit—it’s a source of joy and energy, both olfactory and emotional. Its unique profile makes it a go-to for modern perfumery, from the brightest colognes to the most refined compositions.

At L’Atelier Parfum, we highlight this radiant ingredient in creations that reflect our commitment to quality, transparency, and sustainability—thanks to the expertise of Robertet and its local partners.

Mandarin is the scent of a smile: luminous, sparkling, and resolutely modern.


Sources:

Olfastory – Mandarine 

Marie-Claire – Mandarine et clémentine 

The Perfume Society – Tangerine

Fragrantica – Tangerine note

Robertet